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	<title>Comments on: Framer Friendly Tips for Photographers</title>
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	<link>http://www.karipost.com/blog/2010/03/09/framer-friendly-tips-for-photographers/</link>
	<description>The photos, thoughts, travels, and random oddities of a free spirit</description>
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		<title>By: Mike Matenkosky</title>
		<link>http://www.karipost.com/blog/2010/03/09/framer-friendly-tips-for-photographers/comment-page-1/#comment-647</link>
		<dc:creator>Mike Matenkosky</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Mar 2010 04:47:59 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>I see, that makes sense. I use a lab for my printing and always print full-bleed. I may re-think that and include a 1/2 white border. If for nothing else than for signing.  Thanks again Kari!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I see, that makes sense. I use a lab for my printing and always print full-bleed. I may re-think that and include a 1/2 white border. If for nothing else than for signing.  Thanks again Kari!</p>
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		<title>By: Judd Patterson</title>
		<link>http://www.karipost.com/blog/2010/03/09/framer-friendly-tips-for-photographers/comment-page-1/#comment-646</link>
		<dc:creator>Judd Patterson</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Mar 2010 03:15:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.karipost.com/blog/?p=902#comment-646</guid>
		<description>Kari, thanks for sharing these tips! For a few years now I&#039;ve had everything larger than 8x12 dry mounted by the photo lab...it is just so much easier that way. Rolled prints have never made sense to me, but I know many photographers who sell prints that way. Thanks again.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Kari, thanks for sharing these tips! For a few years now I&#8217;ve had everything larger than 8&#215;12 dry mounted by the photo lab&#8230;it is just so much easier that way. Rolled prints have never made sense to me, but I know many photographers who sell prints that way. Thanks again.</p>
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		<title>By: Kari</title>
		<link>http://www.karipost.com/blog/2010/03/09/framer-friendly-tips-for-photographers/comment-page-1/#comment-645</link>
		<dc:creator>Kari</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 10 Mar 2010 23:29:22 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>Thanks Jim and Mike!

Mike, if you are doing your own mounting and framing, you can really do whatever you would like and feel comfortable with.  A 16x24 print, while large, is not impossible to handle, and once the print is secured and framed, it is safe.  The handling process is where the extra durability of having the print mounted on mat board or foam core is helpful.  I always use acid free foam core as a backing for framed prints (whether the print is dry mounted to it or just mounted using tape, mounting strips, or corners) as it is sturdier than mat board or corrugated cardboard (which some use).  

These tips are geared more towards photographers who are selling prints or having their work framed elsewhere.  If you frame your own pieces, you can put as much time and care into the process as you want.  Custom framers, on the other hand, are usually trying to frame a greater quantity of pieces within a certain time frame.  Providing them with more durable, easier to handle prints allows them to work faster and more efficiently, and also acts as extra insurance for your prints when framers are at the end of a long day of framing or under a time crunch and maybe not being as careful as they could be with your work.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks Jim and Mike!</p>
<p>Mike, if you are doing your own mounting and framing, you can really do whatever you would like and feel comfortable with.  A 16&#215;24 print, while large, is not impossible to handle, and once the print is secured and framed, it is safe.  The handling process is where the extra durability of having the print mounted on mat board or foam core is helpful.  I always use acid free foam core as a backing for framed prints (whether the print is dry mounted to it or just mounted using tape, mounting strips, or corners) as it is sturdier than mat board or corrugated cardboard (which some use).  </p>
<p>These tips are geared more towards photographers who are selling prints or having their work framed elsewhere.  If you frame your own pieces, you can put as much time and care into the process as you want.  Custom framers, on the other hand, are usually trying to frame a greater quantity of pieces within a certain time frame.  Providing them with more durable, easier to handle prints allows them to work faster and more efficiently, and also acts as extra insurance for your prints when framers are at the end of a long day of framing or under a time crunch and maybe not being as careful as they could be with your work.</p>
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		<title>By: Mike Matenkosky</title>
		<link>http://www.karipost.com/blog/2010/03/09/framer-friendly-tips-for-photographers/comment-page-1/#comment-644</link>
		<dc:creator>Mike Matenkosky</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 10 Mar 2010 20:24:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.karipost.com/blog/?p=902#comment-644</guid>
		<description>Great post Kari! I just mounted a 16 x 24 print to a 24 x 32 frame. I used a 1/4&quot; foam core as a backing @ 24 x 32. Should I have used a thinner mat board @ 16 x 24 to strengthen it? Make sense?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Great post Kari! I just mounted a 16 x 24 print to a 24 x 32 frame. I used a 1/4&#8243; foam core as a backing @ 24 x 32. Should I have used a thinner mat board @ 16 x 24 to strengthen it? Make sense?</p>
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		<title>By: Jim Gilbert</title>
		<link>http://www.karipost.com/blog/2010/03/09/framer-friendly-tips-for-photographers/comment-page-1/#comment-642</link>
		<dc:creator>Jim Gilbert</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 10 Mar 2010 04:09:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.karipost.com/blog/?p=902#comment-642</guid>
		<description>Excellent, Kari.  I&#039;ve wondered about this but never gotten around to asking a framer for the answers.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Excellent, Kari.  I&#8217;ve wondered about this but never gotten around to asking a framer for the answers.</p>
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